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Duck Noodle Soup with duck leg, bok toy, egg noodle, pork and shiitake broth from the Boathouse Asian Eatery in the Graton Casino. The fish can be pricey, for two pieces each of nigiri such as maguro ($7), sake ($6) and hamachi ($7), but they’re generous cuts, and we can also delve into more exotic bites like raw, well-marbled Wagyu ($9) and briny oyster ($7). That means I can hog it all myself, with my favorite Rainbow roll, a California roll that’s draped with sashimi tuna, salmon, yellowtail, shrimp and snapper sprinkled in crunchy tobiko ($15). My dining companion doesn’t care for sushi, which delights me.

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